The Final Monument

 October 22 - 25, 2025

Gallup, New Mexico

Horses roam all over the Nation.

Making this change in the route (not staying in the dry camp at Canyon de Chelly) means driving about 90 miles from a FHU campground in either direction to the canyon for a day trip. Staying in Gallup, New Mexico, is six miles closer and half the price of staying in Monument Valley. So while the locations can't compete, the savings make the most sense. And I love being in New Mexico :-)

A last morning stroll in Utah.

When I make the turn in Kayenta my Garmin adds 90 minutes to the day's drive. Whaat? I can hear Sherry reminding me she never trusts a GPS :-) I've already tracked this route and know that Hwy 191 is the best way to go so I ignore the "creative" mapping until it catches up with where I'm going. This is an area with no "civilization" for miles and miles. And more miles. 

It does not lack beauty. Wide open, natural, layers and color. I love it.

I love the spiky tops on this interesting cliff.

And then there's Chinle which is way more civilization than I expected. By a lot! This is where the national monument is. Why is there not an RV park? It would be a great source of revenue for the Nation, and it's already a little town with lots of businesses. It would mean not having to drive 90 miles if you need hookups. Not today. I keep on to Gallup.

We stayed at USA RV Park in the past, and I'm happy to land in a familiar space. Somehow after the first stop every park has put me in an end site. All have been pull-throughs as well so easy peasy!

The dirt dog run across from us and the asphalt roads give Tessa a break from all the gravel she's been living on.

This pic is a 1/4 mile away and describes the sounds of the park - planes, trains and automobiles. A very busy railroad, a municipal airport, and the Interstate are all close beside us. Yet it just doesn't seem noisy to me. I'm weird. 

The first of two days in town I pick up groceries and do a load of laundry. Gallup has more Native jewelry stores than I've seen anywhere - I count 11 on the 8 mile trip to the grocery store! Tessa makes it clear that she is done running around so it's dinner in, and early to bed. 

It's a Route 66 thing.

Canyon de Chelly is the only national monument on this route that I've ever heard of so I have expectations around the cliff dwelling ruins. I'm heading back to Chinle, but I take a different route that takes me through more gorgeous territory and up and over 7000 feet for a short jog through forest. It's another beautiful drive with few other people except at Window Rock, the capitol of the Navajo Nation. Driving past the government buildings there's a large demonstration carrying signs to fire some tribal leader so I don't stop at the little park.

These green hills are a pretty surprise.

Bear's Lodge has a little brother!

The iconic namesake monument of Window Rock.

I find the national monument visitor center behind the locked gates and closed signs. A moment's panic when it looks like this is the only way into the park. But the south rim road is in the other direction and gateless. We're here!

The first overlook takes my breath away. Like Monument Valley, the spirit of this place is powerful.

It feels like the perfect location for a tribal community to call home with agriculture and pasture space, and the security of the surrounding cliffs.

The first few stops have local vendors with their personal art and jewelry. Antonio and Calvin are wonderful story tellers who share the meaning of the art they're offering. The former is the mentor of the latter, and I enjoy spending time with them.

As I'm leaving Antonio hands me a smaller piece that he says is for Tessa, for her journey. I tear up, knowing how right he is. I'm touched by his generosity and empathy.

I pick up some earrings from Andrew Henry, a talented silversmith, and his wife at the next stop. Later I wish I'd also bought the beautiful silver story-teller bracelet. While getting it here would be more special, I can still buy one of his pieces online. 

Clockwise from top left: Calvin's piece tells of the healing river nourishing the corn; Antonio's gift to Tessa focuses on balance and motion leading to healing; Antonio's large piece fills the bowl with friendship, healing, key to next levels; Andrew's fire opal post earrings (on a post card photo of him) are hard to see in the pic, but are full of light; Andrew's horse fetish and bead earrings. 

Antonio is a wonderful artist and story teller. A giving soul.

Calvin has a different style in both his art and his story telling. He's shy and gentle.

I'm excited to arrive at Whitehouse Ruins. Until I'm not. I understood they were visible from the overlook with a zoom, but this isn't true. Access is down a slick rock trail. 3 miles. Not somewhere we can go. Bummed.

Noooo!

It doesn't mean there's nothing to see.

An interesting foot print in slick rock.

Spider Rock is the last stop. These canyons are beyond words.

One of several painters capturing the enchantment.

The short walk to see Spider Rock is more than Tessa can comfortably handle. It's a slow trip back to the Jeep so I know we'll be staying in again tonight. It's okay, I've seen amazing beauty and met incredible people. 

Outside the park, and returning to Gallup, I realize I never did see the campground I thought I would be staying in. 

These bleeding clouds bring much colder temps overnight.

Glad I hooked up the Jeep yesterday when I see ice on the picnic table on moving day!

On to Albuquerque and hoping I 40 has improved!

Oliver visits with Sally and Jack for Halloween.

Cassidy and Henry down for the count.

Monuments and A Monument

 October 19 - 22, 2025

Monument Valley, AZ/UT

PHOTO OVERLOAD WARNING!

A lovely start to a lovely drive.

We always had good luck with Plans B and C, etc. That luck continues for this trip and its changes. The weather is perfect, and the natural beauty a gift for the eyes and spirit. All two-lane roads with no pull-outs that feel safe for PJ means stopping at the few gas stations to take a break, but I forget about the rez dogs! No outside break for Tessa. And since they're far apart they're all packed. It's weird since there aren't many vehicles on the road (guess they're all at the stations!). Past Tuba City the views get better and better. Heading out of Kayenta the red rock screams Utah.

The unique terrain makes the drive go quickly.

The same place Jeff and I stopped last year - a long-closed station provides a needed break.

Preambles to the magic of the valley along the highway.

Should I want to come out of retirement in Kayenta.....

I always have a strong emotional response to the monuments. That first sighting of the familiar figures pulls my heart, calms my soul. I'm so glad I'm here!

Every. Single. Time.

For decades Gouldings RV Park was the only public campground in the area, and the only one with hookups. A few years ago KOA opened a Journey right on Hwy 163, in the middle of the valley. It seemed like a horrible idea to me as I was sure the big yellow signs and structures would take away from the feel of the valley. I was wrong. 

Instead this campground looks more like a sheep camp that takes nothing from the beauty of the place. Nothing tall or "city" looking. I highly recommend staying here when you visit. It is special.

The RV park includes native-guided horseback tours. This view of the stables is my front yard.

My first sunset.

I'm surprised to learn that at about the same time, the Navajo Nation purchased Gouldings. The KOA shares profits with the Nation as well as tax income. Later in the week I wish a similar agreement was made in Chinle, AZ. 

This stop on our route is to visit Navajo NM. Here for three nights, I can also revisit the Navajo Tribal Park as well as explore a new area of the valley. Wanting to see the monuments in the afternoon light, on our first morning I head out on a dirt road west of Gouldings. 

Trees of any size are rare in the valley. I find these beautiful against the red walls.

The variety of how dirt and rock can look is wonderful.

A gnarly cypress climbs from the rock. Why here?

I cross several arroyos with shallow moving water.

Bird Head Rock is on my map. Then there's no map.

Usually I have a good sense of direction, especially in the desert where so much is visible, but when I lose Internet before downloading the map I end up not where I'm aiming. This is still a beautiful part of the Navajo Nation, and I can put the Jeep in turn-around-and-go-back-the-way-you-came mode. While I'm not lost, I admit to some relief when I reach familiar ground.

Invisible (and much deeper than it looks here) from the other side, I'm glad I'm taking my time.

The cliffs behind Gouldings - yay!

Rocks and sticks with a view.

A quick detour to Forest Gump Hill. Because I can.

Part of the fun is watching all the tourists standing in the road to take the classic photo, and running back when their "spotter" yells car!

The view from my site of my favorite monument doesn't show the bear with his honey pot clearly, so I grab a close up of Bear and Rabbit on my way to the  Tribal Park.

This is the third time I've been in the Tribal Park, a dirt route into the heart of the monuments. It may be my last.

Rains over the last few years have taken their toll on the park road, with no apparent maintenance or attempts to smooth the road. Even going at a very slow pace, the track about beats me to death (I hear Gay and Joe telling me to let some air out of my tires, but I stubbornly continue without doing so). I can't imagine the impact on tires and suspensions on the many sedans and city SUVs being driven here! 

Still, there are few places I've ever been that draw me like this sacred space that the tribe generously shares with the world. 

I've included photos of every named monument in previous posts, so I pick a few of my favorites here. Ford's Point is wonderful, but it's packed with cars so I don't stop for a pic this time. It's the first time I've been here in the afternoon and clearly it's the most popular time.

West Mitten begins the tour.

Merrick Butte is the only monument named for a non-native (although Ford was non-native, the point is named for his movies filmed there). Merrick was a silver prospector who was killed here for mining on reservation land. I believe the naming was a warning, rather than an honor.

Three Sisters. The middle child must be intimidated!

Not as dramatic as most, I am always moved by Rain God Mesa. It changes color and feel as you drive it's length.

The same mesa now dressed in red with a large eye keeping watch.

Formerly Artists' Point, now Code Talker Point. There are so many places already named after the WWII heroes of the tribe that I'm not a fan of the change.  

It just feels more artist than soldier to me.

Besides the poor road condition, there are other signs of water erosion here.

The Boot is overshadowed by these incredible un-named sentinels. 

Tuesday we're off to the national monument that brought us here. There's a chance the welcome center will be open as it is co-administered by the Navajo Nation. Fingers crossed.

Some early mornings I'm grateful that Tessa wants to go outside.

Big Chief at dawn.

Do the people who live here ever stop being amazed by this everywhere they go?

The signage is pretty throughout the monument.

Stunning views from the first pull-out. Still another  amazing color!

Arrghh, closed. All the trails that lead from the back are open. 

Most of the campsites in the free campground back up to this view. All dry, all posted for 25' or less total.

I could likely have fit in Space 10, but with the 10 mile drive in from the highway, and our limited hiking ability, I'm glad I changed to Monument Valley.

On our way out we stop to explore a large slick rock shelf.

The surface is freckled with multiple colors.

Lots of biological soil crusts that we take care to avoid stepping on.

Recent rains leave behind small ponds.

From the edge (not the edge of the edge!) more layers open up. I believe the trails run to the bottom of these cliffs.

The restrooms in the campground are open and clean, trash is empty. There are two sites with small camper vans, but I don't see any people beyond the visitor center parking lot. This is another national monument I didn't know was here, and that I'm glad I came to see.

Truth be told, the reason I didn't do this drive on Monday is because Amigos in Kayenta is closed on Mondays! One of best stops for Navajo Tacos. 

My mouth is already watering.

On the patio with the pretty blue door.

Last sunset from this amazing place.

Our stylish Reese and Penelope

Maximus and Mason take Mom to the Hogwarts Express - lucky!