Highway of Legends

Sunday, June 5, 2016
Trinidad, Colorado 


In addition to her campground review, Lisa also posted about the Highway of Legends, and I know we have to see it. Hoping the predicted thunder storms will hold off, we head out on the 120 mile loop. 

There are 21 identified points of interest, and we're staying at number three. The town of Trinidad, and the history museum downtown are points one and two.

Cokedale is a few cute old homes, a fire station, church, community center, museum, and the interesting ruins of coke ovens once used for turning coal to coke (used for smelting iron). Looking like a single row of Roman ruins, the symmetry of the structures is impressive.

Cokedale coke ovens, Hwy 12

We stop for gas at Segundo. Once the home of the largest coal processing plant west of Chicago, it now has a roadside market and not much else. I'm confident that the pure blue skies and beautiful Purgatoire Valley don't miss the stinky ol' plant much at all. 

Segundo business district

We miss the bridge house in Vigil :-), but fall in love with the little burg of Stonewall. This whole valley is stunning with the snow capped Rockies in the distance, and meadows full of green grass and wildflowers. Here the 250 ft high Dakota Wall adds another spectacular dimension. The entire commercial enterprise of Stonewall is for sale, and includes a market, restaurant, cabins, liquor store, outfitters, and four RV spaces. 

Now a peaceful retreat, Stonewall has a contentious history of battles between early settlers and land-grant heirs

I have to remember this is covered in snow many months of the year

Pretty homes spread out over the valley

Dakota Wall, Stonewall, Colorado

You could own this....

The Purgatoire River runs through this valley, with three small lakes "built" in the early 1900's to supply water to the town of Trinidad. We stop to look at the first two, but Bill has his sights on the third one for some fishing.

Monument Lake has a small resort with cabins and a small store

North Lake has minimal access from a primitive day use area

At Cuchara Pass we reach nearly 10,000 feet. The views are beautiful. Plenty to see from this elevation. Really no need to go any higher......

Except there's this nice dirt road that goes to Cordova Pass. Just six miles up.

And up.

Fortunately it is a fairly wide dirt road with large trees "covering" the steep drop off on one side. Unfortunately I'm feeling the higher elevation in a not-so-good way, and by the time we reach the summit Bill is feeling it too. Tessa thinks we're wusses.

The first mile lures you in, before the rocks and ruts laugh at you the rest of the way

Spanish Moss near the summit

The snow is pretty and melting even though it is much cooler up here. The view point trail is muddy and unappealing so we pass. There are some amazing views from the road, and the pit toilet is immaculate so the side trip isn't a complete wash. And it was my idea......

Still deep in some places

because we're at a gazillion feet

Back at Cachua Pass we stop at Farley Point to enjoy the views. Really, no need to go any higher to see them.

Just to the left of center

the little resort of Cuchara

We miss Blue Lake (I swear I am driving under the speed limit and paying attention to the road!), and stop for lunch in Cuchara. Two eateries, two liquor stores, two gift shops, two lodges, and two real estate offices. It must be a code.

Lunch at Timbers is delicious but I feel like I'm underdressed in shorts and a t-shirt. Not sure where all the folks in slacks and skirts drove in from....maybe they're all headed to the same wedding.

Timbers in Cuchara is a nice half-way point for lunch

The Aspens still wear their fresh spring green

Bill learns from the waitress that Blue Lake is back five miles and on the west side of the highway. We turn at the big brown sign (clearly there is not one coming from the south) and find a nearly full parking lot at the little lake. No one seems to be getting any bites, but Bill has his poles so what the heck.

Tessa and I walk around a bit, read a bit, and after about 40 minutes Bill returns. 

Like the river nearby, this creek is fast and full

Man in his heaven

A peek of creek below the snow

Furry orange rock......Broncos territory

We passed a beaver pond on the way to the lake, and we stop there on our way back. Bill and his brother Wayne used to fish beaver ponds when they lived in Colorado 35 years ago. Wayne would have turned 69 today had he not passed two years ago. He's with Bill today as he catches two trout from the pond. Sweet.

The storm begins to build in the distance

while Tessa embraces her Mountain Mutt

along a lovely creek

with blue skies overhead

Now that fish have been caught (and released), the road trip continues north and west. 

A few miles later, and not listed on our map, is a crazy wall of what look like very loose rocks. 

Hours later, as the thunder is shaking the motorhome, I wonder if these are still standing?!

One of over 400 natural stone dikes that surround the Spanish Peaks like wheel spokes, Devil's Stairsteps is point of interest number 15.

At 4:30 the sun makes it impossible to capture the "steps" side of the dike. Still, it is amazing from all directions. Spanish Peaks in the background.

There are not a lot of places to pull off on this highway so we pass an interesting volcanic plug called Goemmer's Butte without taking a photo. From here the Cuchara Valley opens up with the little town of La Veta in the middle. 

La Veta is a quaint, artsy little town that looks like a fun place to explore. There are two RV parks that both look completely full of travelers. We'll have to check it out next time as the skies are getting dark and dopler is showing the storm moving toward us.

We drive through Lathrop State Park, which is another very nice park with electric sites and plenty of space. It is about 10% full on this Sunday afternoon.

Points of interest 19 and 20 are a golf course and the old coal town of Walsenburg. The golf course is green and the town is about half the size of Trinidad, but we don't need to stop for either of them.

The final point is the Ludlow Massacre Memorial which we don't see. It is a sad piece of local history commemorating the confrontation between 10,000 miners and state militia. Obviously from its name, many were killed. 

The highway returns us to I-25 at Walsenburg, and the 40 mile drive back to Trinidad completes the loop.

There is so much beauty and history to enjoy on this drive, I strongly recommend taking a day to see it when you're in the area.

I have been craving Chinese food for months and we finally find a not-the-scary-buffet-with-funky-smells restaurant in Trinidad for dinner. Wonderful House has a nice selection of standard and specialty items.

The storm holds off just long enough for us to get home, and then we have about an hour of delightful rain, lightning and big booming thunder. 

Maybe it will wash off the motorhome!

Our nearly empty campground getting a nice soaking