Smoke Is Now a Season of Its Own - and Its Yucky!

 August 1-4, 2021

Polson, Montana

A million years ago I attended a family reunion north of Flathead Lake, and as a result was seriously preparing to move to the area. The natural beauty was incredible and I was hooked! 

Then Mt St Helens blew and put the brakes on that plan.

It's taken until 2021 to put Polson, Montana, on our route and we have both been looking forward to finally exploring this area.

Sadly it looks today much like it probably did after the mountain erupted. 

Our drive northeast from St Regis is pretty along the Flathead River, but depressing as we see the smoke isn't improving :-(  Arriving at Polson/Flathead Lake KOA we learn a new fire has started at nearby Finley Point, closing MT 35 and adding more smoke to an already filled sky.

Any other time we would have partial views of the water from our narrow 50 AMP FHU site. A nice level patio with a couple trees so no satellite. Since we had planned to be out and about I didn't figure TV was a consideration. Sadly being outside is gross.

Enjoying a cold cider with what would normally be an amazing water view at the nearby Shoe Grill (horseshoe theme). 

Very welcome rain arrives Sunday evening, dropping the temps and lowering the smoke smell. In the morning we're hoping for improved air, but if anything the cloud cover is holding the smoke in and it's worse. In addition, the rain drops were muddy from the smoke and ash, making a mess of our windows.

Lovely to hear the wet. Hoping it helps the fire fighters.

Monday we brave the drive to Kalispell, getting glimpses of what must be a beautiful lake. It's so big!!! Some people (that we can see close to shore) are making the best of their vacation and playing on the water. I feel bad for all the families who have also been looking forward to being here.

What has become an annual reality, smoke must have some impact on farming in the area.

Built in 1895, Conrad Mansion is fully restored. Originally home to Kalispell founder, Charles Conrad.

Kalispell's county building, completed in 1905. The history says it had a hole for a clock, but never had a clock installed. Clearly some time since then a clock did indeed arrive!

We had planned a stop at the National Bison Range on our travel day, but I missed the turn-off so we head out on Tuesday for a visit. Turns out a stop in the motorhome would have been a waste of time as the visitor's center is just a counter to pay the fee for the drive through the range. Not something one does in an RV!

In 2020 the range was returned to federal trust ownership for the Salish and Kootenai tribes. The land is on their reservation, and the treaty-breaking act of establishing a national reserve in 1908 has been the subject of a century of legal battles. Today the tribes' natural resource managers are once again stewards of the herd their ancestors established and protected starting in the 1800s. 

We choose the two-hour loop drive, taking in all of the diverse and healthy plains and forest that make up the range. We already know we'll return to enjoy the amazing vistas that are blurred this time. Even with the thick smoke we agree this is a special place. 

Elk antlers at the visitor center. No signage on how many years are represented.

The dirt drive immediately climbs high into the hills.

Healthy grasslands.

In addition to access, the $10 entrance free includes an interpretive map. These berry bushes along Pauline Creek are a favorite of many bears in the area. They aren't here today.

Our first wildlife sighting. In the shade of the road that divides the grasslands from the pine forest, there are several chipmunks finding some tasty treats. 

The top of the drive is at 4400' with a 10% grade back down. From here you can usually view a glacier lake. 

I learned when checking in that the herd is rutting and not likely to be visible, with the exception of maybe a couple lone bulls who have been run-off from the others {ahhh :(}. So we're happily surprised when we crest the hills and see the herd in the distance. Note that "see" is relative in this haze. But still.....Bison!!

A couple hundred yards from the road we find this mature bull. He is glorious!

The highlight of a great tour is seeing the herd on the move. From grazing quietly, several break away and begin running down the hill. They end up turning around and moving out of sight.

At the bottom of the hill we pick up the two-way traffic section of the road (a 45 minute option from the visitor center to the long one-way route we take) and confirm that the longer way is the best way to see the true beauty of this place. We do get a couple more wildlife sightings, and a few miles along the fast-moving Mission Creek which provides year-round water for those living here.

We were at the very top above the trees when looking for the glacier lake.

Babies are best!

Mission Creek

Very far from the herd, obviously said the wrong thing to the wrong member of the herd!

We never did see the blue or purple bison - another reason to come back!

Returning to Polson I know I can't do another day of this heavy smoke. I contact our next stop and confirm we can come a day early. 

Fiesta en Jalisco is very nice, with good food, but the current view confirms it's time to go.

I'm completely confused as to why I booked a week at our next stop which has very little to see (even when the continuing smoke isn't there). Alas, we'll see what we can get up to - and hopefully see an improvement in the air quality!