Sierra County - the Land of a Thousand Cattle Guards

 April 11 - 14, 2022

Elephant Butte Lake, New Mexico

We visited Elephant Butte Lake State Park a few years back and thought then it would be a fun place for a few days. More water in the lake back then, but the Lion Beach campground still has lovely views. 

It's only a 75 mile drive from Las Cruces, so we consider stopping in Hatch for lunch to kill some time for the 4 pm check-in. But high winds are also expected to return, and I'd like to be off the road by then. So we take a chance and show up at the park at 12:30.

Where the friendly ranger gives us our paperwork along with sage advice: "Move in if your site is open, and if not find a spot where you'll fit." Well okay!

Our Site 88 with "front row" views of the lake is open, and we're set up quickly with 30 amp and water, a covered picnic table, and fire pit on a good size, level dirt site. Our AT&T MiFi works well.

From our windshield - the water's so low :-(

The wind arrives shortly after our arrival, and I'm happy we made the decision to come straight to the park! When making this route I originally had us moving east through Oklahoma and Missouri. Tornado Alley in the Spring didn't seem like a good plan so I rerouted through New Mexico and Colorado. Not sure Spring in New Mexico is much different from small tornadoes somewhere else!! Wind is its own season here, dominating any temperature changes. Certainly no April showers on the horizon or in the forecast.

Another place we haven't seen is Gila Cliff Dwellings and I'm bummed to read the Visitor Center is closed this week due to short staffing :-( Instead we'll see parts of the Geronimo National Trail Scenic Byway. There's always places to explore!

Tuesday's wind is the worst we've had since getting on the road in 2015. 35 mph sustained with gusts up to 60 mph for 10 hours. Fortunately the dust doesn't kick up until late afternoon when we've returned from our explorations so the views are beautiful along the northern route.

The little spots of civilization (barely) along the byway are remnants of the area's mining history. Cuchillo has the only post office we see, and Winston the only gas pumps and tiny general store. Chloride at the end of the maintained road has a couple temporarily closed eateries and shops, with a nice historic district. Folks here are clearly working to keep their little hamlet alive.  Cattle and minimal agriculture seem to be the only "industry". Some have built newer homes and maintained some pride of ownership, but there are a lot of rundown structures surrounded by trash and junk. It's an odd mix.

Several old adobes hanging on.

A singular pop of color in the otherwise brown Monticello.

Many vintage vehicle carcasses along the way.

One of two information plaques - the other in Chloride.

Beautiful long views from the byway to the mountains.

As we climb into the mountains we encounter a few locals out for a stroll.

More expansive, but different, views from up top.

The reality of progress.....

Chloride's tiny historic district is immaculate and well laid out.

The Grafton Cabin is well traveled. Built in Grafton in the 1870s, it was moved to Las Cruces in 1976 where it was part of the city's museum system. When development meant having to move it out, the residents of Chloride raised the money needed to move it here in 2006 to preserve the history of the area it represents.

I don't know if land boundaries have moved over the years, and the cattle guards were just added rather than replaced, but there are guards every few miles. And definitely more guards than fences. Maybe more guards than cattle!

Lots of spring calves along our route so far. These youngsters are so curious.

We enjoyed this glimpse into history.

Rather than waning, the winds have increased in the valley, and the dust is kicking up. My phone is showing air quality notices. Truth or Consequences is hazy and we tuck into Johnny B's for a late lunch - everyone's talking about how bad the wind is on the highway. The structure over the gas pumps across the street looks like it's going to take off any minute. So glad this wasn't our travel day!

Before we left I pulled in the big slide (that topper really flaps in the wind), and we keep it in until almost 9 pm when the wind finally drops below 28 mph. 

Wednesday morning I'm grateful to see we're back to a more comfortable wind speed. I don't think it ever really goes away in New Mexico.

The southern leg of the scenic byway is on Hwy 152 - a route through the Gila National Forest to Silver City. It's lovely having less wind, and it's surprisingly chilly, never getting above 65 all day. 

From desert plains to thick pine forest, it's an interesting drive with a lot of variety. The amazing rock formations are a big surprise! Historic Hillsboro is another former mining community struggling to redefine itself. 

Several opportunities in Hillsboro.

Our destination is Emory Pass at 8300 feet. We find the wind here - and it's cold!!

Nearly 10 years after the fire there is very little sign of forest recovery. 

The Percha Creek truss bridge was build in 1927 and when the new highway was put through it was kept as a viewing deck. We watch a pair of Ravens riding the air currents, their iridescent wings catching flashes of blue and green against these colorful walls. 

Remains of Kingston's jail, circa 1890.

Kingston's Old Courthouse

Interesting hoodoos.

Like the previous route, there are dozens of cattle guards. Only a few cattle visible, but guards every few miles!

Teeny tiny window at the top of a formation.

With the lake so low and the Rio Grande now Rio Pequeno, the towns of Truth or Consequences and Elephant Butte are clearly struggling to stay alive. Lots of closed businesses and others with limited hours. We enjoyed the natural beauty and history so it was a great stop-over for us. 

Looking forward to a week in Albuquerque next.