I Was Lovin' Iowa Even Before I Found a Trader Joe's - and a Couple of High School Friends!

 May 12 - 16, 2022

Solon, Iowa

Not forecast as "high winds", but the 17-22 mph side-winds and gusts, with the gazillion big trucks, on I-80 make for another exhausting drive on Thursday. Fortunately at 115 miles, it's not a long one. 

We're a day late for our reservation so a 2:00 arrival for a 4:00 check-in isn't an issue. The snarky ranger is an unpleasant introduction to Sugar Bottom COE Campground, but the park itself is beautiful. Hardwoods in their snazzy spring green with lush lawn throughout. Sites are close to each other for a public park, but there only three other campers in our 14-space loop so it feels very spacious. A couple more arrive over the weekend, but we still don't feel crowded. 50 amp and water on mostly level dirt pads. Rickety old picnic tables, and nice heavy fire rings. Our satellite connects in space 57 although our water view is blocked almost completely blocked with trees. 

Our front yard view with the river just beyond the trees.

It's a million degrees when we arrive, but the humidity is coming down so no one dies. We explore the nearby town of North Liberty and grab an early pasta dinner at Mirabito's. A simple little place in a strip-mall, with very good food.

Friday we head for Devonian Fossil Gorge, but find three school buses of little-graders starting their visit so we agree another day will be better for us. Good for them getting out to learn about this treasure close to their homes!

We check out the river where at least three dozen pelicans are hanging out, probably irritating the fishermen. I've never seen so many on fresh water, and they're beautiful.

There are 16 just in this photo!

They're almost all sporting their weird mating bump. Apparently more attractive to pelicans than humans. 

High clouds and a light breeze make for a lovely day to explore the countryside. We're in search of the Schwab Round Barns, now owned by the Iowa State Conservancy. They have a wonderful history, and are on my list of things I want to see while here. 

The Celebration Barn is stunning from the outside,

and OMG amazing on the inside.

The timber slat ceiling is made from dead trees found on the property.

The only thing on the walls is this interesting relief panel.

Many weddings and other events happen under the rock arch, said to be held there by gravity alone.

Three other round stone barns on the other side of the pond.

And this little round building tucked in between them.

This oblong, wooden barn needs some TLC as do the grounds in this area. 

I'm bummed not to find the referenced labyrinth and there are no staff to be found on site - although there are several vehicles. I highly recommend the short trip to see these beauties if you're in the area!

We often come across the "biggest, longest, tallest, etc" in our travels, usually by accident. I actually have the "Largest Wooden Buffalo Nickel" on my list. When we route to see it we find we passed it earlier and didn't know it was there :-)

Wouldn't have wanted to miss this! You're welcome.

Iowa City is home to the University of Iowa, and after we're already in downtown (where the campus is), we learn this weekend is graduation :-)) Clearly a lot of people already know this. 

I want to see the Literary Walk - plates in the sidewalk on Iowa Avenue depicting quotes and scenes from 49 books selected by a local committee. Nothing online gives us an intersection or address to start, but a friendly officer (while giving tickets to the cars on either side of us) tells us we're in the right area. We find a pick-up only parking spot, and I make a quick dash to see the plates!

"The midwestern land has a soft, undulating quality like concentric circles spreading from a rock tossed into a farm pond" Chris Offut - The Same River Twice

"The small towns of the strange middle of our lives remain small  Streets wintry even in summer." Robert Dana - Summer in a Very Small Town

All are worn, and I'm the only person taking any notice of them. Unique in style, each one is a lovely piece of art. Something I'd love to see in more places!

Murals, both bold and subtle, add another layer of art to the busy downtown. We escape back to the suburbs and enjoy late lunch at Tin Roost - trendy interior with a nice variety. The Tuna Poke and Jambalaya are both excellent. 

Saturday morning - blue skies, no wind, lower humidity, lower temps! It's like a glorious gift :-)))

And a perfect day to check out the Amana Colonies. The utopian communal society began in 1714 in Germany. The community immigrated to America in the 1800's seeking religious and cultural freedom, but gave up its communal living in 1932 due to the depression, and an increased desire for individuality. A profit-sharing corporation was established to manage the mills, agriculture and businesses. It is a fascinating story. 

Barns and freshly mowed fields are the theme on our drive.

Built in 1856, the Ackerman residence was one of the first built in the new colony and served as the community kitchen until others were completed. Many of the structures have information plaques.

Many brick colonials throughout the seven communities.

The main street of Armana is lined with wonderful shops, galleries, bakeries, eateries and museums. 

Glimpses of German culture shared throughout.

I'm always going to love a place where Maypoles line the street!

This stunning Gray catches my eye.

Then we catch hers and she comes over to say hello.

Few sweets are worth the carbs to me - but a German almond crisp is definitely an exception! Thin and flaky, and so divine.

So I'm already loving this beautiful state when I see there's a Trader Joe's nearby!! I'm stupidly happy about this discovery, and we make a quick stop on our way home.

Bill had gotten a message a few days ago from an old friend from high school who we learn lives in nearby Cedar Rapids. She and her husband graduated a year before me, we saw them five years ago at a reunion, and of course we're hoping we can get together while we're here. He has a softball tournament and they aren't sure when they might be free.

Our last day we head back to see the fossils! In 1993 the spillway topped at the Colville Dam and flooded much of the surrounding area. The rushing waters dislocated several layers of hardened sediment exposing fossils hidden for 400 million years. A park was built to highlight the discovery, and thousands of people came to see them. In 2008 another flood damaged much of the park and sent several of the fossil plates down river. Nature giveth and nature taketh away! 

Many fossils remain, repairs and restoration to the park have been completed, and we enjoy exploring the unique gorge. 

A late afternoon shower chases us into El Sol in the little town of Solon, but the skies have cleared when we return home. Just before dark we hear from Janet, and she and Steve stop by to visit for a couple hours. It's wonderful to get caught up and see how happy they are in their retirement! 

Janet, Steve and Bill - friends for 55 years!

Sugar Bottom Campground is the first COE we've stayed at, although everyone raves about them. In the past I've found the reservation process difficult and the check-in times so late for our normal scheduling. This is such a lovely park, and it was easy to come in a day late with just a phone call. I'll look at more of them for sure! 

Monday morning we head for one more Iowa stop.