Exploring Those Amazing Valleys

 April 23 - 26, 2023

Bluff, Utah

Sweet views from home.

After a lazy day at home on Saturday to avoid any crowds, we head out Sunday morning under sunny skies. In this area the drives to anywhere are breath-taking. Having gorgeous destinations adds to the magic.

Valley of the Gods was part of Bears Ears until a proclamation by the 45th president removed the area from the national monument. It remains protected by BLM as an area of Critical Environmental Concern. Dispersed camping is allowed at several locations throughout, and a small off-grid B&B is located near the western entrance at Hwy 261. There are no services, no signage, and limited cell coverage. The drive is 17 miles of dirt - two-way between Highways 261 and 163. 

The current "names" of the monuments are those given by locals over the years. I'm sure the tribes have original names, but I don't find them online. 

From Hwy 163

Seven Sailors

Sitting Hen

Un-named

Battleship Butte

I would have called this "loose teeth".

Another un-named stand looking like a choir ready to serenade us.

Castle Butte

Santa's Sleigh

Feeling small among the gods.

One of a handful of trees in the valley.

Interesting blue rock creek bed.

We end on Hwy 261. To the right is Moki Dugway, a left turn takes us back to Hwy 161 with a turn off for Goosenecks State Park on the way. $5 entrance, cash only. Not some place we would ever take the RV, but many do dry camp along the steep, un-fenced cliffs over the San Juan River. Two gooseneck turns in one location is rare, and the view is worth a stop. There is one spot with large rocks along the edge where I don't feel like gravity is sucking me over the side - everywhere else is terrifying :-)

Lots of loose dirt and shale along the edge - what could go wrong?

Nope.

The late afternoon weather is still beautiful so we make a side trip to Mexican Hat Rock. On previous stops here there was no access to the river behind the rock, but now there is a dirt road with dispersed camping spots. Several campers are parked between the trees and the dusty road. The incredible chevron-patterned hills along the river are some of the most unique we've seen anywhere. 

Easy to see inspiration for pottery and baskets.

The "backside" we've not seen before.

There aren't many eatery options anywhere nearby, but we give the new Canyon Smokehouse BBQ a try. While Bill's is mediocre, my brisket salad is tasty. 

Hoping for less people, and leaving the best for last, Monday we explore the sacred beauty of Monument Valley. There are few locations that speak to me like this place. Even with several other vehicles that want to move at a much faster pace (I pull over on the dirt road to let them keep moving away), and the occasional load of guided tours in pickup beds, I connect with the spirit and beauty here in a very special way. I remember my Robert Mirabal CD this time, and highly recommend it for this 1-2 hour experience. Of course just seeing all the unique formations and long views makes for a great day!

The first view beacons us to come visit.

This hilltop is now officially called "Forrest Gump Scenic Point" with pull-outs and reduced speed limits. We arrive in time to see Forrest himself running up the hill!

First up are the Mitten Buttes - West and East

One of two monuments named for people (in this case the only non-native person) - Merrick Butte is named for silver miner Jack Merrick.

Four wheel drive is not needed but there are plenty of bumps and rough spots throughout the park.

This not-in-the-brochure combination catches my eye above the trail. 

Elephant Butte 

Camel Butte

The "other side" of Elephant Butte.

Iconic Ford's Point today

From this 1925 scene in The Vanishing American, to Johnny Depp and Armie Hammer in The Lone Ranger, the location has hosted dozens of movie makers. 

Three Sisters can be seen from throughout the park, this view from Ford's Point.

At a slow pace you can see magical things like these wind spirits carved by nature.

From a distance they blend into the varnish.

Totem Pole surrounded by the 12 Dancers - faces and movement come alive the longer you visit.

The sun draws the gold from the rock.

Rain God Mesa - a large and powerful place. 

So much to just see.

Once Artists' Point, this stunning long view is now named Navajo Code Talker Point.

The Thumb

The Hub - representing the hub of a wheel. 

I could easily come here for days in a row and never tire of the beauty. Grateful that we had this perfect day, I'm already looking forward to our return.

Lunch at Gouldings up the road is mediocre, but the historic site is always a fun stop. 

It was Harry Goulding who brought John Ford and John Wayne here to film Stagecoach, and ultimately Monument Valley into theaters around the world. 

Apparently we can catch a ride home from here!

Big Chief is one of several monuments visible outside the park.

My favorite is Bear and Rabbit. Love that Bear is eating from a honey pot and that Rabbit's little mouth is visible.

Castle Butte with Bear and Rabbit

La Sal Mountains - one more time :-)

Our week in Bluff has been great - I'm so glad I booked a full week here. Breakfast on Tuesday at Twin Rocks Cafe is our third stop here where the blue corn pancakes are yum as is the sage sausage. Wednesday morning we're on our way to Torrey, Utah, to visit my favorite national park in Utah, and more of the state's natural beauty.  

Youngest grand, Oliver, is excited to see his Virginia cousin Reese in SoCal. 

Happy Henry is getting so big.