On the Road Abode: Trading a zip code for a toad: Monuments and A Monument

October 19 - 22, 2025

Monument Valley, AZ/UT

PHOTO OVERLOAD WARNING!

A lovely start to a lovely drive.

We always had good luck with Plans B and C, etc. That luck continues for this trip and its changes. The weather is perfect, and the natural beauty a gift for the eyes and spirit. All two-lane roads with no pull-outs that feel safe for PJ means stopping at the few gas stations to take a break, but I forget about the rez dogs! No outside break for Tessa. And since they're far apart they're all packed. It's weird since there aren't many vehicles on the road (guess they're all at the stations!). Past Tuba City the views get better and better. Heading out of Kayenta the red rock screams Utah.

The unique terrain makes the drive go quickly.

The same place Jeff and I stopped last year - a long-closed station provides a needed break.

Preambles to the magic of the valley along the highway.

Should I want to come out of retirement in Kayenta.....

I always have a strong emotional response to the monuments. That first sighting of the familiar figures pulls my heart, calms my soul. I'm so glad I'm here!

Every. Single. Time.

For decades Gouldings RV Park was the only public campground in the area, and the only one with hookups. A few years ago KOA opened a Journey right on Hwy 163, in the middle of the valley. It seemed like a horrible idea to me as I was sure the big yellow signs and structures would take away from the feel of the valley. I was wrong.

Instead this campground looks more like a sheep camp that takes nothing from the beauty of the place. Nothing tall or "city" looking. I highly recommend staying here when you visit. It is special.

The RV park includes native-guided horseback tours. This view of the stables is my front yard.

My first sunset.

I'm surprised to learn that at about the same time, the Navajo Nation purchased Gouldings. The KOA shares profits with the Nation as well as tax income. Later in the week I wish a similar agreement was made in Chinle, AZ.

This stop on our route is to visit Navajo NM. Here for three nights, I can also revisit the Navajo Tribal Park as well as explore a new area of the valley. Wanting to see the monuments in the afternoon light, on our first morning I head out on a dirt road west of Gouldings.

Trees of any size are rare in the valley. I find these beautiful against the red walls.

The variety of how dirt and rock can look is wonderful.

A gnarly cypress climbs from the rock. Why here?

I cross several arroyos with shallow moving water.

Bird Head Rock is on my map. Then there's no map.

Usually I have a good sense of direction, especially in the desert where so much is visible, but when I lose Internet before downloading the map I end up not where I'm aiming. This is still a beautiful part of the Navajo Nation, and I can put the Jeep in turn-around-and-go-back-the-way-you-came mode. While I'm not lost, I admit to some relief when I reach familiar ground.

Invisible (and much deeper than it looks here) from the other side, I'm glad I'm taking my time.

The cliffs behind Gouldings - yay!

Rocks and sticks with a view.

A quick detour to Forest Gump Hill. Because I can.

Part of the fun is watching all the tourists standing in the road to take the classic photo, and running back when their "spotter" yells car!

The view from my site of my favorite monument doesn't show the bear with his honey pot clearly, so I grab a close up of Bear and Rabbit on my way to the Tribal Park.

This is the third time I've been in the Tribal Park, a dirt route into the heart of the monuments. It may be my last.

Rains over the last few years have taken their toll on the park road, with no apparent maintenance or attempts to smooth the road. Even going at a very slow pace, the track about beats me to death (I hear Gay and Joe telling me to let some air out of my tires, but I stubbornly continue without doing so). I can't imagine the impact on tires and suspensions on the many sedans and city SUVs being driven here!

Still, there are few places I've ever been that draw me like this sacred space that the tribe generously shares with the world.

I've included photos of every named monument in previous posts, so I pick a few of my favorites here. Ford's Point is wonderful, but it's packed with cars so I don't stop for a pic this time. It's the first time I've been here in the afternoon and clearly it's the most popular time.

West Mitten begins the tour.

Merrick Butte is the only monument named for a non-native (although Ford was non-native, the point is named for his movies filmed there). Merrick was a silver prospector who was killed here for mining on reservation land. I believe the naming was a warning, rather than an honor.

Three Sisters. The middle child must be intimidated!

Not as dramatic as most, I am always moved by Rain God Mesa. It changes color and feel as you drive it's length.

The same mesa now dressed in red with a large eye keeping watch.

Formerly Artists' Point, now Code Talker Point. There are so many places already named after the WWII heroes of the tribe that I'm not a fan of the change.

It just feels more artist than soldier to me.

Besides the poor road condition, there are other signs of water erosion here.

The Boot is overshadowed by these incredible un-named sentinels.

Tuesday we're off to the national monument that brought us here. There's a chance the welcome center will be open as it is co-administered by the Navajo Nation. Fingers crossed.

Some early mornings I'm grateful that Tessa wants to go outside.

Big Chief at dawn.

Do the people who live here ever stop being amazed by this everywhere they go?

The signage is pretty throughout the monument.

Stunning views from the first pull-out. Still another amazing color!

Arrghh, closed. All the trails that lead from the back are open.

Most of the campsites in the free campground back up to this view. All dry, all posted for 25' or less total.

I could likely have fit in Space 10, but with the 10 mile drive in from the highway, and our limited hiking ability, I'm glad I changed to Monument Valley.

On our way out we stop to explore a large slick rock shelf.

The surface is freckled with multiple colors.

Lots of biological soil crusts that we take care to avoid stepping on.

Recent rains leave behind small ponds.

From the edge (not the edge of the edge!) more layers open up. I believe the trails run to the bottom of these cliffs.

The restrooms in the campground are open and clean, trash is empty. There are two sites with small camper vans, but I don't see any people beyond the visitor center parking lot. This is another national monument I didn't know was here, and that I'm glad I came to see.

Truth be told, the reason I didn't do this drive on Monday is because Amigos in Kayenta is closed on Mondays! One of best stops for Navajo Tacos.