Lakes, Falls, Dams, and a River Set Free - It's All About the Water

A river runs through it, again.

We left the ocean, but not the water. Although warmer and dryer than normal, the Olympic Peninsula holds many beautiful water sources within her vast forests.

For our return to Lake Crescent, we stayed at the Shadow Mountain RV Park about a mile east. A basic park with 40 terraced gravel sites, full hook-ups, a general store, gas station (diesel, yes) small playground, field for doggies, and a miniature golf course in the trees. It's also for sale and includes a park-model home and a couple golf carts. If we were younger and still needing to work......

Hwy 101 runs along the very edge of Lake Crescent, and is one of those Class-A-windshield drives that makes you appreciate just how much you can see. Of course you can also see the monster logging trucks coming at you on the narrow, twisting, narrow road. Not sure why they always look so much bigger and aggressive than other large trucks!

Several people recommended the Lake Crescent Lodge as a must-see. So we did. And they were right. There are no bad views of this lake, but the lodge certainly has one of the best.

Rooms, cabins, restaurant

Swimming beach

Kayaks and kites

Following the signs we found several walking paths and soon figured out that Nature Bridge was not something you walked over, but rather a place where you come to stay and learn about the ecosystems of Lake Crescent and the Olympic Forest. There are large and small cabins as well as outdoor and indoor classrooms. It looks like a great program.

Clouds blew in, the temperature dropped, and for a short period it was a different place.

A brief break in the sunshine

Made a quick stop by the old ranger station at Marymere Falls and drove around to the east side of the lake.  The water was very rough along this section, but apparently it was smoother underneath.

Marymere Falls Ranger Station (closed)

When it's rough on the surface

go below.

Another place we missed last time was the Log Cabin Resort. With a small RV park right on the water (FHUs), a free day-use parking lot, rentals (kayaks, SUPs, canoes, peddle boats, boards), lodge, cabins, small store, and restaurant it is a gem of a spot on this beautiful lake.



Happy campers share their views



A rare sighting - the Board Bottom Duck

Clouds clear while we enjoy our lunch with a view

We continued around the lake, into Crescent Bay, and out the other side.

The only access to the beach and trails at Crescent Bay is from the small RV park across the road from the beach. We didn't feel like spending money just to get out of the car to stretch our legs so we kept going. 

Onto Hwy 112 where we somehow missed Salt Creek Recreation Area's park which we hope to stay at next time we're in the area. Stopped at the Elwha Dam RV Park where we were unable to secure a spot this week, and where I first learned about the removal of the dam(s) and the restoration of the Elwha River. It's a nice spot, but no better than where we are so I wasn't disappointed.

Our final Wednesday stop was at the former Lake Aldwell, now returned to the river. From what I've learned of Mr Aldwell, I am delighted to see the lake is no more.

Site of now dry Lake Aldwell above the now removed Elwha Dam

Tons of silt trapped in the lake for 100 years caused the delta below to shrink

A fresh start

Thursday was a "town day" and Friday was a "home day" so we joined the weekenders this morning to see some more of the national park.

Madison Falls is on the edge of the park and therefore dogs are allowed on the trail. It is a short, paved, forested path that ends at a beautiful waterfall. Although it's not a large one, it is our first so it is very special.

You always remember your first

Love that sound!

This giant tree had the most magical spirit

The only other people there were a young couple who found a spot on the other side of a tree to watch the water and we never heard them. I love quiet people in nature :-)  On our drive back, the parking lot was full so our timing was great.

I knew about the falls, and that there was an "observation point" at the end of the road. I didn't realize there was a huge piece of the river restoration included on this route. It was a real treat for me to see the former site of Lake Mills and the remains of the Glines Dam.

Seeing the Elwha River free to flow all the way to the ocean was an emotional experience. There are no words that say what it is to see what was, what is - and to envision what will be.



Removal of Glines Dam emptied Lake Mills, opening the long-closed spawning home for what was once millions of salmon

Note the white post at the end on the left side

So fast!  Yes, I teleported

I had not seen anything about this public site and was blown away by the opportunity to learn even more about the project at the top of the destroyed dam! They will need a bigger parking lot as more people are made aware.

The Elwha River Restoration is a fascinating piece of current history, one that gives me such hope for the future of our planet.



Flowing free where a dam stood for decades

Entering the canyon from the former lake site

Restoring natural habitat destroyed in the demolition

In keeping with the theme, we also had a bit of rain this afternoon. Not enough, but still lovely to hear on the roof and smell in the air.

Just Like That, Only Different

La Push is the furthest northwest we were going to stay, so Sunday we made a day trip to the furthest northwest location in the lower 48 - Cape Flattery and Neah Bay, WA. 

Most of the roads in the area run through the Olympic National Park/Forest so the default is OMG-beautiful everywhere you go. Trees, rivers, meadows, ocean, wildflowers, history, lakes - all of it is everywhere up here. And it is always different.

Another beautiful drive

So the drive to Neah Bay is all that. Just like what we've seen, and like nothing we've ever seen before.  All of Neah Bay is Reservation land. I'm not sure how that works inside the national park, I should probably look it up.

Unlike La Push though is the requirement for a recreation pass to be there. Signs tell you they are available everywhere. Until you drive all the way out to Cape Flattery and there's no place to get one, and you need one to park and take the trail to the cape, and you really don't want to come back and find your vehicle gone (not likely, but possible) so you call it "close enough" and turn around and drive back. And pay for a pass at the local eatery.

Neah Bay has an interesting mix of campgrounds including a big field along the beach where mostly tents and a couple smaller trailers are planted where they landed, with extension cords running across campsites and roads connecting to a couple power poles. Mostly young families and younger singles - it looked like they were all having fun. Nearby is a 10-FHU-site park with small cabins, also very close to the beach.  In town are two small parks with FHUs on grass fields.

The good size harbor on the Strait of San Juan de Fuca is "just around the corner" from the Pacific Ocean. It was hard for me to make sense of which water was which!

Neah Bay where the Pacific meets the Strait

Neah Bay Harbor

We've seen other areas of the Strait. This is a very different place. Rocks of different shapes and colors and sizes along the mud flats of low tide, under an umbrella of light fog, gave this "beach" a very other-world feeling. And then we heard it.

The blow of a whale spout! Bill saw it's back first so we knew where to watch. I was pretty sure I couldn't catch it with the camera, and didn't want to miss it, so I just stared. There! Another blow and the shiny black skin just whisking the surface next to the rocks. Amazing. Powerful even in the brief glimpse.



Low fog obscured the Canadian coast

No running on this beach

Amazing rocks

And just beyond these - was the whale!

Seiku is east of Neah Bay and looks like a cute little marina town. We drove down to take a look.

What we found was the most bizarre assortment of boats and RVs. Everywhere. Boats in the water and on trailers. RVs in every spare spot, on every level of the terraced little town. RVs with boat trailers. I think there are three "official" RV parks and then there are "sites" along the water and in parking lots along the small main road. I've never seen anything like it (again).

Boats tucked in every where

RVs tucked in everywhere

RVs and boats on four "levels" of town



Back to Forks with the only consistent cell/internet coverage to check in with family and load a couple more books on the Kindle, then home for the night.

Monday morning was chilly and overcast as we headed for the Hoh Rain Forest. Yep, there's one of those here too!

Just 25 miles south on Hwy 101 (we've now covered all but 112 miles of it) we turned inland. And the sun came out bright and warm. Didn't feel very rain-foresty.

Sunny rain forest

The Hoh River is the only one not closed in the area, and we were happy to see a sign for public fishing. Happy to have the Jeep as well, finding our way to the river's edge over more of those gnarly rocks. River Rock. It really comes from rivers!

It's a river of milk. Milky water. It's weird, and very beautiful.

Glacier flour is filling the river due to the unusually warm temperatures, turning it a unique silvery, blue-gray. This place works really hard to make sure every day is unique.

Hoh Hoh Hoh

A couple and their two sons were tent camped with their boat and had caught a good size steelhead the night before, and soon after we arrived a guide and two customers launched a small boat, so we figured there must be fish here.

Bill saw a couple rising in the area, but neither he nor the boys in the boat pulled in anything. The rocks on the river bottom did manage to pull in a couple lures and sinkers though :-(

Again, we would have missed this beautiful spot if we weren't looking for fish so it wasn't a wasted effort. And a camera and a good book make any spot a good one to hang out.

Rockhound

Love having our America the Beautiful Pass. The VC at this end of the rain forest is very small with a couple of exhibits on the fungi and other flora. We read about the forest, but with a full parking lot, many people on the trails, and no dogs allowed, we returned to our auto-hike of the area.

Hoh Rain Forest

Just outside the park is a cute little stop called Hard Rain Cafe. In addition to the café and store are about 8 RV sites. On grass and not looking too level, some had FHUs and others just W/E. There were a couple tent-only sites. It's one of those places that never show up on a search engine, are very close to cool stuff to see, and that we'd definitely stay at if we knew about it. Make a note.

Sasquatch hangs out here after a day on the river. A fine endorsement.

Tessa and I spent some more time playing on the beach when we returned. We'll miss having it so close to home.

"Can't we stay forever?"

At the same time we are happy to be returning to the equally beautiful Lake Crescent area.  Life is definitely good on the road.



Back to the Beach

Getting caught up after five days without internet.

Our timing has been incredible this summer. While other areas of the country (including our "launch site"), have had scorching temperatures, excessive rains, tornadoes, humidity, and high winds, we have enjoyed near perfect weather every day.

The day we left Dungeness it was heating up to 82 degrees. Not miserable, but hotter than we've seen other than a day in Ukiah several weeks ago. When we arrived two hours later in La Push, WA, it was 67 degrees with a nice breeze. Perfect.

Having the ocean and James Island right out the window was pretty sweet as well. The beach was about 40 yards from our front door.

From our dining room window

Five days at Quilete Oceanside RV Resort was the very first reservation I made back in March, and the reason we headed west knowing we'd be going east again the following week. Nina's review covers all the important details of this basic-but-fabulous park, and is a must-read if you plan to stay.

At first I was disappointed that we were in Site 2, when 3-11 are facing the ocean, and appear to have the better view. But once we were set up it was clear that we had a prime location. Because it sits higher than the others, Site 2 has a great view of the water, looking over the small dune. It is also back farther from the parking area for day-use (open until 11 PM).

The park is on the Quilete Reservation, and like everything here it is owned and run by the tribe. They have a nice general store a block away with everything from propane and diesel fuel to bread and ice cream. The office has a small store as well, with a nice selection of books and quality souvenirs. A tiny coffee kiosk and a small bathhouse round out the "amenities". There is a lodge and several cabins on site as well.

You come here for the beach. It is a very popular surfing spot during the day, and on weekend nights the sky is lit up by fireworks. Big fireworks! Beautiful but really loud until after 10 PM. The Quillayute River flows into the ocean here, and fishing boats pass in and out all day.

Steps from our site

Popular for surfers

And fishermen (probably fisherwomen too)

And cute little girls

James Island

Driftwood along the jetty and on the beach

Some "pieces" larger than others.....

We spent a day and a half just enjoying the beach, and then we were off on more adventures! With no internet and no cell service at our site, we needed to check in as well as check out more beautiful places!

Why We'll Likely Wait for Solar

Getting caught up after five days without internet.

Leaving Dungeness Recreation Area on Thursday, July 30, I couldn't help but think that all the campers in our loop were cheering to see the big, noisy, stinky motorhome pulling out of their lovely natural campground.

How I felt in the middle of a wildlife refuge!

Dry camping is so noisy. The generator is loud (and stinks). The water pump is loud.

Breaking the peace and quiet of the forest at 8 AM to charge the batteries that worked during the night to keep the residential frig going, and to turn on the Keurig is just wrong. We have instant coffee and the kettle for before 8, but really we're pretty spoiled when it comes to our coffee.

Maybe no one else can hear the water pump for every flush and rinse, but I can hear it. It's annoying.

After hours away from the rig, we have to make noise again for a couple hours - making dinner time with family around the campfire less pleasurable I'm sure. One more 30 minute run before bed....well, you get it. I hate it.

We didn't watch movies or need the AC. I used the microwave a couple times during the afternoon "runs". But we were very frugal with our power usage. Not a bad thing, but we still had to run the generator too much for my comfort level.

There was sun every day, and solar panels would make all the difference. Not every where, but at that site in Dungeness, it would have been great!

We did learn more about the electric system, gaining more confidence in managing the power usage and charging times. Mostly I learned it's noisy and I'm not a fan.

I realize the generator will still get used on cloudy days, and on high power usage days. Solar won't take its place completely, especially with the big frig.

But hopefully, it won't be needed so much, and I won't feel like such big noisy, polluting intruder in the most beautiful natural places we love.

So we'll just wait for solar before we dry camp again.