Avery Island, Louisiana

January 5-8, 2017
Breaux Bridge - Natchitoches, Louisiana


Remembering where folks visited in which part of each state is a challenge. I've already missed a few gems in areas we were in. With our extended stay in Breaux Bridge I would have missed the Tabasco Factory if Mona Lisa hadn't mentioned it on Facebook - thanks ML!!

Thursday is a "hang around" day, too chilly to do anything outdoors. Horses graze in the field in front of us, Tessa does a few zoomies in the grass which we have all to ourselves on both sides, naps are taken.

This guy and three ducks are our only neighbors.

Friday we are out the door by 10:00, on our way to visit Avery Island. Other than the Tabasco Factory I have no idea what to expect.

At the end of an hour's easy drive we come to an entrance booth for the island. There's no fee, just a nice man who hands us information and wishes us a good day. Cool job :-)

Another fifty feet and I can smell the pepper sauce. Stronger than the chocolate in Hershey, Pennsylvania, it gives the air a real "bite".

For $12/each we can tour the factory as well as the neighboring gardens (which we learn are the only two places open to the public at Avery - we also learn it's not an island). Let's do both!

We take our time on the self-guided tour that begins with a small museum and takes us through each step in the pepper-sauce-making process. It's all about time, not a complicated recipe. First the time for the peppers to turn the perfect shade of red (le petite rouge sticks are provided for each picker to make sure the red is right). Then the up to three years for the pepper mash, made of only peppers and a pinch of salt, from the Avery Island salt mines below the island, to cure in oak barrels that are sealed with a thick layer of salt.

Every barrel of mash is tasted by a McIlhenney family member before moving to blending. There the mash mixes with high quality vinegar, stirred regularly for up to four weeks, and the skin, seeds and stems screened out.

And they've been doing it this way, in this location, since Ed McIlhenney started the operation in 1868.  

The finished sauce is bottled in 22 languages and shipped to 180 countries and territories.

In addition to the original Capsicum fruitscens peppers, they now bottle six additional flavors: Chipotle, Habenero, Sweet and Spicy, Buffalo, Garlic, and my favorite, Jalapeno.

The museum includes several artifacts and photos of the process

The only three ingredients and a flask of capsaicin, naturally produced from the peppers.

A small bottle included in MREs

has established a long-term relationship with our military

Michael Anthony's (Van Halen bassist '85-'93) guitar was stolen from a New Orleans restaurant in 1999 and recovered 11 years later when it was (apparently) given to the museum.

Avery "not really an" Island

Avery is actually a large salt dome, pushed up 160 feet above sea level. It measures about 2.5 miles across and includes 22,000 acres. Surrounded by wet lands it resembles an island, although it stands a few miles inland from any open body of water. Generations of Tabasco Company workers have made this their home.

Lovely grounds.

Including some fun art - Ta-Bass-Co

The barrel warehouse - note the packed salt on each one.

Artifact Art

Vats of blended sauce

Working the underground salt mines

The bottling room

The bottle room

Who knew?

A nice gift shop with all that and more, plus a good-size restaurant complete the complex.

Down the driveway, and around the corner is the Jungle Gardens. Everything else on the island is private - homes and the large salt mining company, Cargil.

The factory tour is interesting and enjoyable - the gardens turn out to be the best reason to visit. We spend a long time exploring this beautiful place filled with old growth oaks, cypress, bayous, rolling hills and thick bamboo groves. It must be incredible when the Camelias and Wysteria are in bloom, and when the wildlife is more active.

The trio of oak, fern and moss fill this magical place.

Our only gator-sighting while in Louisiana

Not an easy find......

What a beauty.

During an 1891 visit to the island, Grover Cleveland hugged the tree and land owner McIlhenney named it for him :-)

The French Holly Hedge

One of three paths leading to the Buddha.

Found in a Manhattan warehouse by McIlhenney's friends, and given to him in 1936, the Buddha is said to have been made by the 12th century Chinese emperor, Hui-tsung. The story is that it was looted from it's destroyed temple and sent to New York to be sold in the late 1800's. 

Edward built the small enclosure and surrounded it with a lagoon and dozens of Chinese azalea, bamboo, juniper and a small, red bridge. Today it is a favorite stopping spot amid the beauty of the jungle.

Numerous palms add texture to the jungle.

The lovely path to Bird City through rolling grassland.

Recognizing the devastation of the women's hat industry on the Snowy Egret, McIlhenney built Bird City in a 35 acre pond. He released 8 hand-raised egrets to migrate south and, as he had hoped, 6 of them returned to mate and lay their eggs on the elevated nests he built for them. Every year the pond is filled with the beautiful white birds who call Bird City home.

Palms stand tall along a small lagoon.

One of a few quiet places among the sheltering trees, this one with a bench to sit and reflect.

This protected garden is one of the prettiest places we've seen. Even in the pale of winter, it is exceptional. Visiting when there are less than a handful of other people - even better.

Friday night it drops to 20 degrees and the ice melts very slowly in the morning sun. Pulling in the slides, the thin ice cracks and breaks from the toppers. The drive to Natchitoches is cold with muddy bridges on I-49 making a mess out of the rig and the Jeep. The interior heater can't keep up and by the time we arrive at our stop it is 49 degrees inside. Definitely the coldest we've been!

Once set up, the furnace gets us nice and cozy, just in time for the NFL play-offs. And that's what we do for the whole weekend - stay warm and watch football. Nakatosh Campground is behind a truck stop, and with a level site and 50 amp hook-ups it's all we need. It is also surprisingly quiet for the two nights.

Next stop Texas - state number 29!

EDIT: I often come back and read about where we were the year before. In re-reading this post I can't believe I didn't include the repair of the steps. 

Our service tech arrives in freezing rain with the necessary part. It's not his fault the shipment kept being delayed, but he feels responsible and although the conditions are miserable he wants to get us back on the road. 

He gets on the ground to replace the motor and repair the bad wire - it's below 30 degrees at this time. I open the door hoping some of the heat will blow across him (probably not, but I feel bad that he's got to be so uncomfortable). With the warranty coverage, I write a reasonable amount on a check and thank him for his efforts on our behalf. After all, it's clear from the posts that our extended time here is wonderful!

Acadiana

December 30, 2016 - January 4, 2017
Breaux Bridge, Louisiana

Although the last ten miles of our Thursday drive on Interstate 10 is the roughest piece of highway we've traveled in 19 months, the rattling and rocking doesn't fix the steps. Dang!

We're staying at Poche's Fish n' Camp in Breaux Bridge, Louisiana. After reading Laurel's post about the area, I made reservations here months ago. With concrete pads, FHUs with 50 amp, picnic table and fire ring, and level large sites that back up to a small lake, we like it here. When the free WiFi works well we like it even better :-)

It's our anniversary which we celebrate Cajun style with alligator and boudin balls at a local eatery. We laugh and agree we never thought we'd be eating "such things" on any anniversary :-)))

Cajun cuisine

Tessa appreciates the dog-tv at our new location

Friday morning I call the local Camping World where they are booked for several weeks, although the tech who answers the phone gives us some good trouble-shooting ideas and recommends calling a mobile repair company. I appreciate his time, especially during a holiday week.

Bill reaches Fun in the Sun RV Repair who is able to come out the same day, so we hang around home. They get the steps to come out and stay, but a loose wire has fried the motor that needs to be ordered. At least we don't have to use the step ladder :-)  We were leaving Sunday, so I extend us to Wednesday (Monday is another holiday so Tuesday is the soonest they can complete the job). 

Saturday is New Year's Eve. Unfortunately I have the information wrong on Cafe des Amis' music schedule and miss their morning jam session. Such a bummer as they only do it on Saturdays :-(  Rain is expected all day so we head to the movie theater in nearby Lafayette.

Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them is a delightful film even with the loud talking family in front of us. It must have been their first time at the movies......

If you're a Harry Potter fan, you'll love it

We thought about finding a music venue for a little New Years Eve celebration, but the weather is getting nastier so we opt for an early dinner in town. We wait in the Jeep until the Blue Dog Cafe opens, and the rain increases.

2016 makes a nasty exit. 

The art of George Rodrigue fills the walls

Our meals are delicious and the service is perfect. Unfortunately Mother Nature hasn't let up and our drive home on dark, narrow, flooded roads with lightning and heavy rain is more excitement than I was hoping for. I'm glad we didn't plan a late night.

Sunday there's more rain, better suited to our football-watching agenda. I make red beans and rice from scratch in the Instant Pot and watch the Steelers win again - it's a good day :-)

So much good

Monday starts out with a tornado-watch. Only our second one, but this time there's actually clouds and some wind. We batten down the hatches and return to the theater to see Rogue One, the new Star Wars movie. Unlike Saturday, the place is nearly full when the film starts. No loud talkers, but lots of coughers. Fingers crossed we don't take home a bug. 

Great story

This might be my favorite Star Wars movie. It's like Episode 3.5 in the chronology of the series, and has much of the feel of the early films. Wonderful. Go see it.

Surprisingly when we exit, the sun is out, the sky is blue and there is no wind. Less surprising, our home is still here when we get back to the park, everything intact.

While Bill waits for the service techs to return on Tuesday, I run into Lafayette to visit the Acadian Cultural Center, part of the National Park Service. The 35 minute film is well done, telling the story of the deportation of all Acadians from Nova Scotia by the British government. The French and Catholic community refused to pledge their support to Britain and the Protestant church, and Charles Lawrence ordered them all placed on ships and dropped "in the colonies". It is a sad and depressing piece of history I knew nothing about. Their resilience brought them to Louisiana and rebuilt their Acadiana here in the prairies and bayous.

The area is rich with a diverse culture. Throughout their story run a few common threads

Love of family.

Passion for music

Joy of cooking

Beauty of the Bayou

I enjoy talking with the young ranger who has lived her whole life in the area and is so proud of her heritage and what this center shares with others.

As I'm leaving Bill lets me know he's heard from the repair place. The part didn't come in. 

Oh well. When I get back, I extend our time again. This time to Thursday. It's a pretty place, we're only paying $20/night with Passport America, the WiFi is free (we've used all our gigabytes this month), and we have enough Jello in our plans. 

Nearby is the amazing Poche's Market, recommended by a couple other bloggers as the best place to stock up on Cajun specialties. I make the necessary stop.

Still owned by the original family.

As if it wants us to feel better about our short delay, the skies treat us to a beautiful sunset.

Wednesday morning the pretty sunset has worn off when we're advised the part now won't arrive until Friday. I express myself in a mature and quiet manner which only Bill has the pleasure of experiencing. Lucky man.

They're already working with the warranty company, snow is expected in northeast Texas where we're headed, we have to get the steps fixed - blah, blah, blah.....of course we're staying until the repair is complete. I get over it.

We spend the day in the Lake Martin Cypress Island Preserve and at the Longfellow Evangeline State Historic Site. Both are beautiful. Both look and feel like nowhere else. The day gets much better.

The swamp surrounding the lake is magical

I stop to capture the deep swamp, just as an Egret takes flight

The green water is nearly neon against the winter pale trees

The state historic site includes several interpretive buildings of an Acadian farm community

Wonderful oaks draped in moss and wrapped in fern

I've never seen a chimney like the one on the old cabin - wood frame with plaster/mortar

The tiny farmhouse includes a welcoming front porch

Living space 

Spa tub....

Love finding pops of color in January

Acadians brought wooden shoes from Nova Scotia. They just don't look very comfortable.

The small visitors' center has several displays including this Pirogue, carved from a single Cypress log, the Moss Gin on the right, used to clean sticks and leaves before baling moss, and a moss bale on the left.

Demonstrations are given regularly on this restored loom

Tours of a plantation house are included in the $4 entry fee, but we opt to just walk the rest of the grounds on our own. We'll see the plantation next time.

This really is an amazing area, not a bad place to be "stuck" for a few extra days.

Along the River in New Orleans

December 26-29, 2016
New Orleans, Louisiana


I've been struggling keeping current on the blog since my California trip, and can't believe I failed to post about a wonderful event.

On Thanksgiving, Bill's son Travis and his delightful girlfriend became engaged! He planned the perfect "ask" at her home with both their families there "for pie". We love Emily and are excited to add this very special daughter to the family.

Back in New Orleans.....

We need a few things for the motorhome and there's a Camping World about an hour to the north in Hammond. Rain is expected off and on all day so we figure we'll make the drive and see more of the state.

Long sections of I-10 and I-55 are over the swamp. We love it! Tall Bald Cypress with Spanish Moss and other swampy trees and bushes live in the brackish water. We see almost no birds, just a few Blue Heron and Egret.

There's no place to stop for photos. Getting off the interstate takes you down to "water level" where you lose the view of the swamp. Speaking of levels, we've been between .5 foot and 35 feet below sea level since getting to the gulf coast. Thus the swamps, levees and cement dams. It is like nowhere else.

It's a good thing we enjoy the drive. When we arrive the store is closed. Because Monday is a holiday since Sunday was Christmas. Oops.

The sun is low in the sky on the return trip and the swamp is even more beautiful with the moss glowing in the gold light. Lake Pontchatrain sparkles. Life is good.

Tuesday the weather is awful. 80 degrees and 98% humidity. Tessa gets groomed, groceries are bought, and we hide out in the air conditioning.

We get a call to join the gang for dinner in Raceland, and off we go. More lively conversation, lots of laughter, just fun to get together with their families. Fog rolls in on our way home and we feel our way back to our space in the campground.

There is an elevated walkway past the new cabins at the park, with really great views of the bayou. I take a short walk Wednesday morning.

Around noon Lois and Bob and his wife Cookie come to see our house before we all head to the River Walk in New Orleans.

As locals they prefer the Walk over the Quarter, and with the cooler temps and scattered showers it is nice to be outside.

Too much mall for us, but we have to walk through the outlets to get to the outdoor space. With the holiday break, it is surprisingly busy for a week day. Still, it's fun to watch the big ships and paddle boats on the river, enjoy the art, play music on the bells, eat some gumbo and boudin balls, and spend more time with old friends. 

The Holocaust Memorial is "an artistic visual prayer" with nine panels that make different pieces visible from points on the plaza.

I thought there would be Beignets on every corner, but we haven't even seen them anywhere. Bob leads us down Decataur Street for the original Cafe de Monde, but when we get there the line is huge :-(( So we head back to the mall where there is another, smaller one, where we wait in a shorter line. And finally we have our Beignets!

Jackson Square at Decataur Street

More colorful vintage ladies.

Hot, fresh and yum!

We return home and visit some more before saying our goodbyes for now.

Thursday morning we take our time getting ready and pull out around 11:00. When Bill opens the door to get back in at the dump station the stairs don't come out. Hmmmmm. Something to deal with at our next stop in Breaux Bridge, Louisiana.