Glacier Magic - Day One

July 3-4, 2018
Saint Mary, Montana

Tuesday's drive takes us north on I-15 for about 60 miles, then we're back on two lanes, first Hwy 44, then Hwy 89. Starr School Road is a nice shortcut from Browning for a few miles. The last 10 miles over the mountain to Saint Mary are narrow, winding, and in some spots steep. But it's soooo beautiful!!

Saint Mary is an unincorporated village on the border of the Blackfeet Indian Reservation. The Hiltons and the Johnsons purchased land here in the early 1950's and opened several businesses to support national park attendees and outdoor sport enthusiasts. We set up at the RV park operated by the latter family, overlooking Saint Mary Lake. Johnson's of Saint Mary RV Park has a handful of back-in sites near the office, but most of the sites are terraced pull-throughs up the hill. 

We can't get completely level front to back, but it's not too bad. The outdoor space is very uneven with our older, small picnic table sitting at an angle. FHUs with 50 amp work well, the park WiFi is sporadic, and there is zero cell service. Turns out our AT&T works about 10% of the whole time we're here. Satellite connects around the few cottonwood trees.

But the view!! Even where we've been right on the water, I don't think any spot has been this beautiful.

The photo doesn't do the reality justice.

Bugs on the windshield, not snowing :-)

Although we stay up later because it's light until almost 10:00, we're out the door early (for us) on Wednesday morning. The Going to the Sun Road has only been open for a couple weeks, and I'm looking forward to what I've heard is a most spectacular drive.

Per usual, nothing prepares us for the reality.

Even with the naked forest of the 2006 fire on the other side, the views over the lake are breathtaking.

Wisps of light clouds drift over sharp peaks.

Green gives way to gray.

Wow!

Contrasting colors and textures everywhere.

As we climb we begin to see waterfalls.

Some are single.

A few are twins.

Others drop multiple times.

Reynolds Mountain towers over Logan's Pass. The visitor center is in the bottom right corner.

It's Independence Day and the parking lots are full. Fortunately the road itself isn't bad, and only backs up in the narrowest sections of the road. 

Looking west from the Continental Divide.

The shelf road that drops to the west past Logan's Pass is an amazing feat of engineering. There are several places where it feels like we're literally suspended on a shelf. Planning began in 1918 with construction beginning in 1924 and ending in 1933. Getting equipment up the side of the mountain and using it on the shear face had to have been harrowing. 

1927 - building the Granite Creek retaining wall

1925 - building a road out of rubble.

Much steeper than it looks.

This really is one of the most magical places we've seen. 

Off the mountain we continue through forest along McDonald and Avalanche creeks. Spots of construction have most of the pull-outs closed. We're able to snag a parking spot at the Avalanche Creek viewpoint and another at Lake McDonald. Like Yellowstone, there is a lot of water here.

Avalanche Creek

Glacial waters

The rapids are so powerful they're like foam.

Lake McDonald

It's a warm day and there are small boats for rent, but the water is free of humans.

At West Glacier we stop for a late lunch at one of a couple park eateries. The food is surprisingly good, and the young people serving are friendly and efficient. I've been trying to figure out what's so different about this national park and sitting in the large dining room it dawns on me. It's the lack of diversity among the visitors. There is only one person of color, and that's for the whole day. Definitely not the norm in our experience of national parks. 

Following our lunch we continue the loop along Hwy 2 through East Glacier then north to Two Medicine. The small lakes and camping area are also part of the park. 

A different beauty here.

There are lots of horses on the reservation, but these are the first we see along the road.

Two Medicine Lake

The Cottonwood trees are heavy with fluff.

I've never seen it this thick - it's on the ground and in the air as well.

Our first day in Glacier has been wonderful, with Wow's around every corner. We tuck in early and look forward to seeing more over the next two days.

It's a special time of year to visit.