B is for Beautiful - Big Bend Part One

December 26-28, 2018
Terlingua, Texas

Wednesday's drive is beautiful with the last 25 miles through the national park. As expected, signs for the government shutdown greet us.

An email and voice message told me this morning that the Study-Butte RV Park owners are out of town and that we're in Space 2. It's very tight, but we make it work. Level dirt with 50 amp FHUs, and consistent WiFi all week. Dark and quiet, no picnic tables or fire rings. Showers and laundry, but the office is never open even when the owners return. Check or cash only. The park is full nearly every night. Glad I got reservations!

When we grab some tacos at the local gas station (don't judge, they're really good) we overhear that tourists are trashing the park because the restrooms are closed. As it turns out, we see zero trash the whole time we're in the park and the restrooms are all still open. Good reminder that people speak, but don't always know.

The iconic view of Big Bend National Park is where the Rio Grande passes through Santa Elena Canyon - and it's the only place in the park that's closed. Oh well, next time.

Santa Elena Canyon from the overlook.

Wonderful contrast of colors and textures along the banks of the Rio Grande.

There are so many layers here, and on a clear, sunny day you can see lots of them.

Tiny mesa.

Castolon Station and Historic District

We pick up River Road at Cottonwood Campground (closed), a four-wheel-drive road that we'll take down to the river and back. Instead we turn left and end up deep into the park. 70 miles later we get back on the highway at Rio Grande Village Campground (partial closed), with another 50 miles to home. It's a wonderful and fun adventure, but pack a lunch if you're going to do it :-)

A perfect day to go topless.

Looking like snow, the petrified dunes glow in the sun.

Layers on Castellan Peak tell the story of floods and ash.

A small slit in Santa Elena Canyon in the distance.

During this visit it's hard to look at the beauty with the threat of a massive wall destroying it. The Rio Grande would be lost to Mexico.

Shapes and layers

A constantly changing view.

We've never seen these formations before!

Feeling like we're being watched.....

Golden grasslands

By the end of the drive these cliffs are looking like layer cake!

Next day we're back in the park to see the rest of the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. There are more people here today, but still plenty of parking at each of the stops. 

There is a Weeping Woman near our old home and Bill finds this similar formation along the park's highway. 

Several Yucca in bloom

A pop of color along the wash.

Long views from Sotol Vista 

Native Americans roasted the bulbs of the Sotol for food. On New Year's Eve we'll enjoy Sotol margaritas :-)

Every turn grabs your eye.

Entrance to Lost Burro Mesa Pouroff

Our exploring is cut short when Tessa is bit (stung?) between her toes by a large red ant. Her foot is tucked up tight against her belly and shaking almost immediately. By the time we're in the Jeep she's crying loudly. It's so hard to hear her in pain!! Bill finds a vet in Terlingua who suggests Benadryl, but I'm taking her in to see him. I might have broken a speed limit or two to arrive in 30 minutes. A quick injection in her vein and she's feeling better quickly. Yay!! Unfortunately he doesn't have Xanax for me....

Instead of returning to the park we check out Terlingua Ghost Town and stop for lunch at the High Sierra. Terlingua is the home of the famous chili cookoff, and the chili here is fabulous.

New added to old for little AirBnBs.

Fixer-upper.

Locals expressing their opinion. Other signs are not so subtle.

Terlingua is a mix of building up and tearing down.

We will return to this bustling metropolis for New Year's Eve - but that's for another post.