Thursday, August 5, 2021

Smoke Is Now a Season of Its Own - and Its Yucky!

 August 1-4, 2021
Polson, Montana

A million years ago I attended a family reunion north of Flathead Lake, and as a result was seriously preparing to move to the area. The natural beauty was incredible and I was hooked! 

Then Mt St Helens blew and put the brakes on that plan.

It's taken until 2021 to put Polson, Montana, on our route and we have both been looking forward to finally exploring this area.

Sadly it looks today much like it probably did after the mountain erupted. 

Our drive northeast from St Regis is pretty along the Flathead River, but depressing as we see the smoke isn't improving :-(  Arriving at Polson/Flathead Lake KOA we learn a new fire has started at nearby Finley Point, closing MT 35 and adding more smoke to an already filled sky.

Any other time we would have partial views of the water from our narrow 50 AMP FHU site. A nice level patio with a couple trees so no satellite. Since we had planned to be out and about I didn't figure TV was a consideration. Sadly being outside is gross.

Enjoying a cold cider with what would normally be an amazing water view at the nearby Shoe Grill (horseshoe theme). 

Very welcome rain arrives Sunday evening, dropping the temps and lowering the smoke smell. In the morning we're hoping for improved air, but if anything the cloud cover is holding the smoke in and it's worse. In addition, the rain drops were muddy from the smoke and ash, making a mess of our windows.

Lovely to hear the wet. Hoping it helps the fire fighters.

Monday we brave the drive to Kalispell, getting glimpses of what must be a beautiful lake. It's so big!!! Some people (that we can see close to shore) are making the best of their vacation and playing on the water. I feel bad for all the families who have also been looking forward to being here.

What has become an annual reality, smoke must have some impact on farming in the area.

Built in 1895, Conrad Mansion is fully restored. Originally home to Kalispell founder, Charles Conrad.

Kalispell's county building, completed in 1905. The history says it had a hole for a clock, but never had a clock installed. Clearly some time since then a clock did indeed arrive!

We had planned a stop at the National Bison Range on our travel day, but I missed the turn-off so we head out on Tuesday for a visit. Turns out a stop in the motorhome would have been a waste of time as the visitor's center is just a counter to pay the fee for the drive through the range. Not something one does in an RV!

In 2020 the range was returned to federal trust ownership for the Salish and Kootenai tribes. The land is on their reservation, and the treaty-breaking act of establishing a national reserve in 1908 has been the subject of a century of legal battles. Today the tribes' natural resource managers are once again stewards of the herd their ancestors established and protected starting in the 1800s. 

We choose the two-hour loop drive, taking in all of the diverse and healthy plains and forest that make up the range. We already know we'll return to enjoy the amazing vistas that are blurred this time. Even with the thick smoke we agree this is a special place. 

Elk antlers at the visitor center. No signage on how many years are represented.

The dirt drive immediately climbs high into the hills.

Healthy grasslands.

In addition to access, the $10 entrance free includes an interpretive map. These berry bushes along Pauline Creek are a favorite of many bears in the area. They aren't here today.

Our first wildlife sighting. In the shade of the road that divides the grasslands from the pine forest, there are several chipmunks finding some tasty treats. 

The top of the drive is at 4400' with a 10% grade back down. From here you can usually view a glacier lake. 

I learned when checking in that the herd is rutting and not likely to be visible, with the exception of maybe a couple lone bulls who have been run-off from the others {ahhh :(}. So we're happily surprised when we crest the hills and see the herd in the distance. Note that "see" is relative in this haze. But still.....Bison!!



A couple hundred yards from the road we find this mature bull. He is glorious!

The highlight of a great tour is seeing the herd on the move. From grazing quietly, several break away and begin running down the hill. They end up turning around and moving out of sight.

At the bottom of the hill we pick up the two-way traffic section of the road (a 45 minute option from the visitor center to the long one-way route we take) and confirm that the longer way is the best way to see the true beauty of this place. We do get a couple more wildlife sightings, and a few miles along the fast-moving Mission Creek which provides year-round water for those living here.

We were at the very top above the trees when looking for the glacier lake.


Babies are best!

Mission Creek

Very far from the herd, obviously said the wrong thing to the wrong member of the herd!

We never did see the blue or purple bison - another reason to come back!

Returning to Polson I know I can't do another day of this heavy smoke. I contact our next stop and confirm we can come a day early. 

Fiesta en Jalisco is very nice, with good food, but the current view confirms it's time to go.

I'm completely confused as to why I booked a week at our next stop which has very little to see (even when the continuing smoke isn't there). Alas, we'll see what we can get up to - and hopefully see an improvement in the air quality!



16 comments:

  1. So sorry our skies aren't cooperating yet again for you guys! I've been in Billings all week and it was so smokey there too!

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    1. Bummer for visiting with your friend too! We just have to get up here earlier in the summers I think.

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  2. I'm so sorry for the smoky skies. It looks awful. I'm sure it smells awful and is terrible for everyone's lungs including the wildlife. I am glad to hear that you are able to go early. Flexibility in reservations is a thing of the past in the places I've been staying.

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    1. We didn't get the one night refunded of course, but I was happy we could add another night to our next destination (although eight days here isn't very exciting). Fortunately as bad as the smoke has been the particulate count hasn't been deadly.

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  3. I certainly understand your frustration with the smoke, we've been with the Tamarack and Dixie fires since our time in Eastern Sierra. But a couple days ago the Dixie Fire jumped the containment lines and California has lost yet another town :( I'll take the disruption the smoke causes over sorting thru ashes for memories.
    Great pictures of the park and its critters, wear your facemask to reduce breathing the smoke. Continue to make the best of a very bad situation, ...
    And Stay Safe!

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    1. Oh no, it's horrible when we lose people's homes. We don't take lightly the sacrifices others are making well beyond our inconveniences. It's incredible how broad the impacted area is this year.

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  4. There really aren’t any words left that haven’t already been said…
    The bison are magnificent creatures. So glad you were able see them. And oh those beautiful golden fields and barns will always be some of my favorite memories and pictures! Thank you for sharing. Hoping you find clear blue skies soon!

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    1. I'm a big fan of red barns and golden fields so I'm loving finding these treasures in the area. That bison bull was the healthiest one I've ever seen, it was wonderful getting to see him so close.

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  5. Polson and Flathead Lake (Whitefish too) are some of our favorite places. We changed our plans this year, not due to the smoke, but I guess we're ultimately happy we did. There's always next year! We were out and around on a beautiful, sunny day. Just a little smoke in the distance so we thanks our lucky stars and enjoyed what we have.....Finger's crossed for you.

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    1. I really do hope this doesn't become an annual reality for so many reasons. Glad you're getting sunny days!! We're seeing some improvement but can't call it a sunny day yet, but the air is better.

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  6. Oh, it is so devastating to see the smoke blanketing so much of the west. These are such challenging times. I hope somehow that things will turn around. Despite the challenge of thick smoke, you found so much beauty at the National Bison Range. And your photographs (even in the smoke!) are wonderful. Stay safe, friends.

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    1. I feel so bad for those with health issues who can't get out of it even temporarily. We're seeing bluer skies today and hoping it means the fires are also getting contained. You two enjoy NC!!

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  7. Such a beautiful area. It's so sad to see all the smoke. Glad you were able to get out for a little touring. Always love seeing the buffalo. Hope you have better air quality in the new stop.

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    1. It took a while but we did get big skies today. The area is so naturally beautiful, it's awful to have this happen nearly every year now.

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  8. Darn smoke. That’s why we’re probably taking MtT and WA snd UD off our list of future homes. Seems like each year is always smoky.

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    1. Sadly I'm afraid you're right to do so - even with the rain we've had, the smoke is still hanging on.

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