On the Road Abode: Trading a zip code for a toad: The Final Monument

October 22 - 25, 2025

Gallup, New Mexico

Horses roam all over the Nation.

Making this change in the route (not staying in the dry camp at Canyon de Chelly) means driving about 90 miles from a FHU campground in either direction to the canyon for a day trip. Staying in Gallup, New Mexico, is six miles closer and half the price of staying in Monument Valley. So while the locations can't compete, the savings make the most sense. And I love being in New Mexico :-)

A last morning stroll in Utah.

When I make the turn in Kayenta my Garmin adds 90 minutes to the day's drive. Whaat? I can hear Sherry reminding me she never trusts a GPS :-) I've already tracked this route and know that Hwy 191 is the best way to go so I ignore the "creative" mapping until it catches up with where I'm going. This is an area with no "civilization" for miles and miles. And more miles.

It does not lack beauty. Wide open, natural, layers and color. I love it.

I love the spiky tops on this interesting cliff.

And then there's Chinle which is way more civilization than I expected. By a lot! This is where the national monument is. Why is there not an RV park? It would be a great source of revenue for the Nation, and it's already a little town with lots of businesses. It would mean not having to drive 90 miles if you need hookups. Not today. I keep on to Gallup.

We stayed at USA RV Park in the past, and I'm happy to land in a familiar space. Somehow after the first stop every park has put me in an end site. All have been pull-throughs as well so easy peasy!

The dirt dog run across from us and the asphalt roads give Tessa a break from all the gravel she's been living on.

This pic is a 1/4 mile away and describes the sounds of the park - planes, trains and automobiles. A very busy railroad, a municipal airport, and the Interstate are all close beside us. Yet it just doesn't seem noisy to me. I'm weird.

The first of two days in town I pick up groceries and do a load of laundry. Gallup has more Native jewelry stores than I've seen anywhere - I count 11 on the 8 mile trip to the grocery store! Tessa makes it clear that she is done running around so it's dinner in, and early to bed.

It's a Route 66 thing.

Canyon de Chelly is the only national monument on this route that I've ever heard of so I have expectations around the cliff dwelling ruins. I'm heading back to Chinle, but I take a different route that takes me through more gorgeous territory and up and over 7000 feet for a short jog through forest. It's another beautiful drive with few other people except at Window Rock, the capitol of the Navajo Nation. Driving past the government buildings there's a large demonstration carrying signs to fire some tribal leader so I don't stop at the little park.

These green hills are a pretty surprise.

Bear's Lodge has a little brother!

The iconic namesake monument of Window Rock.

I find the national monument visitor center behind the locked gates and closed signs. A moment's panic when it looks like this is the only way into the park. But the south rim road is in the other direction and gateless. We're here!

The first overlook takes my breath away. Like Monument Valley, the spirit of this place is powerful.

It feels like the perfect location for a tribal community to call home with agriculture and pasture space, and the security of the surrounding cliffs.

The first few stops have local vendors with their personal art and jewelry. Antonio and Calvin are wonderful story tellers who share the meaning of the art they're offering. The former is the mentor of the latter, and I enjoy spending time with them.

As I'm leaving Antonio hands me a smaller piece that he says is for Tessa, for her journey. I tear up, knowing how right he is. I'm touched by his generosity and empathy.

I pick up some earrings from Andrew Henry, a talented silversmith, and his wife at the next stop. Later I wish I'd also bought the beautiful silver story-teller bracelet. While getting it here would be more special, I can still buy one of his pieces online.

Clockwise from top left: Calvin's piece tells of the healing river nourishing the corn; Antonio's gift to Tessa focuses on balance and motion leading to healing; Antonio's large piece fills the bowl with friendship, healing, key to next levels; Andrew's fire opal post earrings (on a post card photo of him) are hard to see in the pic, but are full of light; Andrew's horse fetish and bead earrings.

Antonio is a wonderful artist and story teller. A giving soul.

Calvin has a different style in both his art and his story telling. He's shy and gentle.

I'm excited to arrive at Whitehouse Ruins. Until I'm not. I understood they were visible from the overlook with a zoom, but this isn't true. Access is down a slick rock trail. 3 miles. Not somewhere we can go. Bummed.

Noooo!

It doesn't mean there's nothing to see.

An interesting foot print in slick rock.

Spider Rock is the last stop. These canyons are beyond words.

One of several painters capturing the enchantment.

The short walk to see Spider Rock is more than Tessa can comfortably handle. It's a slow trip back to the Jeep so I know we'll be staying in again tonight. It's okay, I've seen amazing beauty and met incredible people.

Outside the park, and returning to Gallup, I realize I never did see the campground I thought I would be staying in.