Avoiding the Disney-ness of Popular Places

October 13-17, 2017
Page, Arizona

I was sure when we came back to Page we would do an Antelope Canyon tour and see Horseshoe Bend - they're the main draws here (other than that big lake). 

After the Zion crowds we are not enthusiastic about squeezing into seats in the back of a pick-up, or trudging up a sandy hill with dozens of others - no matter the beauty promised at the end of both. So, being grown-ups who can do what we want, we spend our time on paths less traveled.

And have the best time!!

Saturday morning we head south on Hwy 89 to Hwy 89A for a return to trip to Vermillion Cliffs National Monument. The nearly 300,000 acres include the spectacular cliffs that are the third "step" in the Grand Staircase of the Colorado Plateau. We've traveled across all of them in the last few weeks. 

Grand Canyon (A), Chocolate Cliffs (B), Vermilion Cliffs (C), White Cliffs (D), Zion Canyon (E), Gray Cliffs (F), Pink Cliffs (G), Bryce Canyon (H)

We stop at the Navajo Bridge information center that we missed last time. Figuring we'll see it on the way back, we pass the road to Lee's Ferry. We should have made the turn as we end up not coming back. But we saw it last time (gorgeous!), and we love discovering new places.

Bill and Tessa "braved" the bridge for this beautiful shot. He's rewarded with seeing two Condors!

I've been gone five minutes.....

The original bridge on the left replaced the ferry crossing in 1929. Increased weight and numbers of vehicles meant a larger, safer bridge was needed. In 1995, the new bridge on the right was opened.

The process and detail in this handmade rug is incredible.

This is one of my favorite drives - the combination of long vistas, colorful cliffs, interesting boulders, and a quiet spirit, make it very special. 

We may be grown ups, but we never tire of playing among the rocks.

The lack of other people is a real plus as well. We stop at a historic site that has been allowed to deteriorate, but still holds the energy of the four directions in its layout. We have lunch at the lone picnic table where the weather is perfect and the views stunning. 

Three of the bases have no sign.

The single sign is barely legible.

I sit in the center and appreciate the energy of each direction. The cliffs dominate North.

Hard to beat this lunch location.

After lunch we head for the Condor Viewing Area area. The change in lighting here makes the cliffs glow. Unlike at the bridge, neither of us see any Condors    :-(

Instead of returning the way we came, Bill suggests we continue the back way to Hwy 89. Much of the dirt road is a miserable washboard, so bad that I have to come to nearly a complete stop in a few places. Several miles in we pass a BMW convertible! Has to be a rental :-)

Eventually we enter Coyote Bluffs and Paria Canyon, and more uniquely beautiful desert. We love the surprise of an unexpected route. After a few stops to explore, we complete the loop back to home.

Old corrals in open range lands.

Pastel bands 

at the base of vibrant walls.

Strawberry, vanilla and chocolate.

Another boulder looking man-made.

A giant swipe of lime green "paint" high on the rocks.

Golden Eagle keeps an eye on the canyon below.

Buckskin Gulch

The dry riverbed crunches under foot.

Large mud curls look more like china shards.

Amen, Mr. President

Sunday we enjoy our day of football, catch up on laundry, look for another place to play on our last day.

With the exception of Wahweap Marina I don't know of any other land access to the lake. So I'm surprised when a little research finds a thin road from Big Water to Warm Creek Bay. 

Let's go there on Monday!

After fording a narrow wash with shallow flowing water we follow a dirt road along pewter and copper hills then across an alien planet. It's completely different from the world we traversed yesterday.

Many of the copper boulders fell from the top.

Some were uncovered where they stand.

Standing out in a strange world.

Dry meanders. 

A giant silver ship in the desert.

Layers of geological stories.

We pass one other vehicle parked at a trailhead then drop into a narrow canyon that we enjoy for hours by ourselves. Colors, formations, textures - so many wonders around every corner. 

Hole-y walls hang over the trail.

A large pink sea "shell" above the wash.

Green tinted walls.

Bands of red wrap around pillars.

After scrambling up and down some rocks, the trail blazer finds a little shade.

A cul-de-sac with very tall walls. See Bill at the bottom?

When I look back I'm surprised that Tessa isn't behind me.

Then I look closer.....

A stunning dry fall.

We climb out of the canyon into hills of sand. At the top we look down on the small bay where the trail ends. A house boat is anchored in the calm water. I try to appreciate the vivid blue against the red and tan shore, and not think of all the natural beauty and ancient history destroyed by the damming of these canyons.

Warm Creek Bay

There's always new things to see on the way back - like this "milled" slab standing against the wall.

Designed by water, past and present.

Back to the real world - what a great day!!

We really like the Southern Utah/Northern Arizona area and are already making plans to return in the Spring. Even if we never see the more popular spots in Page :-)

Tuesday we're on the road to Monument Valley, and more of this beautiful country.