Thursday, October 26, 2017

Our Last Utah Hurrah - For Now!

October 17-20, 2017
Monument Valley, Utah

Several years ago (pre-RV) we drove through Monument Valley and swore we'd come back and stay a few days. 

Not a national or state park. All in the Navajo Nation. 

A place of amazing beauty and spirit. A place that feels unique and special. 

In 1923, the federal government traded farm land to the Paiute Tribe for some land along the Utah/Arizona border, that was made available for sale. Harry Goulding and his wife Mike (real name was Leone which Harry couldn't spell in his letters to her), bought 640 acres to open a trading post. When the surrounding land became part of the large Navajo Nation, the Goulding's land became a sovereign island within a sovereign nation. 


Harry and Mike Goulding
Harry and Mike were accepted and embraced by the Navajo people. Drought and depression sent the couple to Hollywood in 1938 with photos of the beautiful valley they called home. Within weeks of seeing the scenery, John Ford and John Wayne, and the whole cast and crew of Stagecoach came to the valley to film the movie from the front of the Goulding home. 

Hundreds of Navajo were hired at $5/day, and the movie industry began a long term relationship with the tribe and Harry and Mike.


The Lone Ranger - 2013
The property was gifted to Knox College when the Gouldings moved to Page, AZ, where Harry passed away in 1981. The LaFont family purchased the property and invited Mike to live her final years in the valley she loved so much. 

Now Goulding is a lodge, grocery store, small airport, neighborhood of homes, gas station, restaurant and the RV park where we stay for three nights. There is also a high school and elementary school but I'm not sure if they are part of Goulding. Set within red rocks with amazing views, it is a lovely community.

Tuesday we drive 125 miles with a stop for lunch in Kayenta. Bill had his first Indian Taco at Amigo Cafe on our original trip and we are ready for a repeat!


As good as we remember!
Gouldings Monument Valley RV Park has 66 level red dirt sites with small trees surrounded by gorgeous cliffs. FHUs with 50 amp, small picnic tables and fire rings. 


Sweet view from our site.
Wednesday morning we drive 6 miles to the Navajo Tribal Park. Half way there we cross into Arizona. 

We pay the $20/vehicle (up to four people), cross the parking lot at the hotel, pass the numerous tour trucks (pickups with bench seats in the back), and head out on the 17 mile scenic dirt road.

While the road becomes rough and rocky in some places, I definitely recommend driving even a regular car over taking one of the tours. The speed limit is 15 mph and there are several pullouts to take photos and enjoy the beauty. The tour trucks pass us at higher speeds without making any stops until they get to the sites where there are crafts for sale. Not my idea of a "real" tour :-(

Instead, we take hours, making many stops, soaking in the spirit of this lovely place.


West Mitten, East Mitten and Merrick Butte

Elephant Butte - his trunk is on the very right end.

The layers constantly change the views.

John Ford Point

From The Lone Ranger - one of many, many iconic scenes from this location.

Tiny lizard tracks in the sand - note the tail mark.
Camel Butte

Rain God Mesa
Three Sisters to the right is visible from many locations in the park.

Hogans at the foot of The Hub. 
Many un-named spots of beauty along the trail.



Yei Bi Chei and Totem Pole in front of Spearhead Mesa.
Blending in - again.

Stunning colors from Artist's Point Overlook.
Thumb also known as The Boot from the other side.
Cly Butte named for a well known medicine man buried at the foot of the formation.



Spirit rides the wind through these incredible monuments. It is a gift to visit.
We stop at the lodge restaurant where the food is mediocre. The parking lot is full of vintage touring cars being driven through iconic locations of the southwest.


A true beauty.

Classy blue Bentley.

Cue John Wayne....
Honoring the founders.
A few of our blogger buddies posted about two areas north of us. Wednesday we drive north to see Valley of the Gods and Gooseneck State Park.

We enjoy more monuments along the highway. Like the names in the tribal park, we only have the "White Man's" names. I'm sure the Dine' have beautiful spiritual names that I could never pronounce.


Brigham's Tomb, King on His Throne, Stagecoach, Bear and Rabbit, Castle Butte

Big Chief

The Bear and The Rabbit. See the bear holding his paws up to his face on the left, and the giant bunny head to the right? My favorite :-)

A quick stop at Mexican Hat en route.

Slowly becoming the Fluffy Pink Dog.

Valley of the Gods is BLM land, we pass several boondockers through the beautiful area.

Smaller monuments, still big on beauty.

Dual formations, each unique.

So cool.

A short side track takes us to this lovely campsite along a dry creek.

Desert Fall.

Darkening skies change the varied hues.

Another balancing act.

Lovely blue/lavender Juniper berries.
We get back on the pavement and make the short drive to Gooseneck. 

I've seen photos. I know that some people park their RVs right at the edge of this canyon. I see it myself.

I still think they're all nuts!!

The whole time we're here I'm uncomfortable. Yes, it's beautiful and unique. It's a must-see if you're in the area. Getting back in the Jeep and driving away from the edge makes me happy.


Loose shale at the edge - what could go wrong?

At first I think this is a lovely meditation spiral....

...but apparently it's a time machine, because it was made next year.

I need longer arms.
Yes, if you have wings, the edge is fine.

A small area with a block wall makes for a much better photo spot. See the rafts?
Rafts.
I don't notice until we get home that I took no photos of the RVs on the edge - denial?

On the way back I'm sad we're leaving the next day. Leaving the valley, and Utah after six weeks. 

We will be back - soon!




22 comments:

  1. Great story and pics, can't wait to get to Utah!

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  2. Great blog and pictures of a beautiful area. The tour trucks can go to a few 'locals only' places in the valley so I'd not rule them out. The cousin's grandfatehr-in-law was a Code Talker, I'll suggest the Burger King exhibit in Kayenta. Well worth the stop.

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    1. We did notice a section that was tour vehicles only so that would be a good reason to take one! Saw the signs in Kayenta, will have to make that stop next time.

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  3. Wonderful information on Monument Valley. We drive through it but have never been stopped. I didn't know any of the background. Thanks for sharing it. We do enjoy Valley of the Gods. There use to be a map diagram on the board at the entrance with the names of all the monuments. They really look like their name. You don't have to try to figure them out. Tessa doesn't look very happy about being the pink fluffy dog even if Halloween is coming:)

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    1. I wish that map was there - I'd love to know their names :-) Tessa will be very happy to be clean again, just a couple more days!!

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  4. Thanks so much for the info on Gouldings--and for the gorgeous photos! My dear husband is right there with you about Goosenecks--he was uncomfortable the whole time we were there.

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    1. The Gouldings are a great love story - both for the land and for each other.

      I knew Mike was a smart guy :-)))

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  5. What an interesting history of the Navajo land, the movie industry and Harry and Mike. What a wonderful memorial to them and how great that Mike got to return to her valley after his death. We should all be so lucky as we age to be in the home of our hearts.
    Your pictures are outstanding. Piper is obviously at home in that red rock. Thanks so much for saying even a Honda Accord might be able to do the road and advising against the tours. I really seldom do tours since I also would really rather take my time. How cool to see the vintage cars. Just love your picture of the “gooseneck”. 6 weeks in Utah clearly wasn’t enough but thanks for all the places you took me to.

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    1. Ruby could do the road, especially since you'll want to go slow anyway! I liked the Gooseneck pics better when I saw them later :-) So much more to see - we're already looking forward to coming back!!

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  6. Outstanding pictures! It's as close as I will come to seeing the area myself. So glad you enjoyed it. Will look forward to your next stop(s)

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  7. Such amazing formations! It really is hard to leave Utah...surely the most visually appealing state in the nation.

    Time travel...snort! ;-)

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    1. :-)))))!

      Utah really did get more than it's share of wow.

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  8. I sure enjoyed all the photos and information in this post Jodee. Like John and Pam, we have only driven through Monument Valley and all its beauty. Your desert fall pictures are gorgeous. Piper looks right at home!

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    1. Both of the dirt roads give access to really wonderful desert - you guys would love them!

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  9. Gorgeous photos and fabulous time on the road. Wonder what you'll be exploring next?

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    1. Thanks :-)) Our plans are wide open after visiting with family - fun, huh?!

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  10. Your photos of this fabulous country are amazing. I am so bummed for not getting to these areas this year.

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    1. I'm bummed you had to re-route too! Next year for sure. Glad you enjoyed visiting here.

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  11. Just gorgeous photos! Loved your telling of the history of Monument Valley. We're with you on skipping the tour and doing our own. It has been many years since we've been there, but your post makes me want to return. The time machine at Goosenecks -- so funny! I'm okay with looking over the edge, but no way do I feel comfortable parking our rig there!

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    1. We almost went to Bluff from Moab to make the Valley a day trip. Now that we've stayed there I think we'll do that in the future. There's nothing there but the monuments and Gouldings, but we loved it. We laughed at the dates on the rocks :-)))

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